The smell of Laos food is even more important than the taste

Did you know that Laos has the lowest population density of any country in S. East Asia?  They have just five million people in a country the size of the U.K.

But......in my mind Laos offers some of the most fulfilling food experiences in the world.  Don't baulk....look at the photos and for goodness sake visit the place!

Gaining merit, as I was to find out, is central to the Laos psyche.  The more you care for others (not just monks) the more merit you gain, so acts of kindness and charity are bound into the social fabric of everyday life.  Each day I received something...a smile, drink, present and food...that was special to the people.  So many of them had so little, yet they were willing to give everything they could to a virtual stranger.

The typical Laos greeting is 'kin khao nyang?' ..'have you eaten yet?'.  I usually say no (even if I have..tee hee) and sit down and join in.   I shared some delicious bbq fish, laos salsa (jeow) and sticky rice with this family.

Laos people rarely eat alone.  They believe that food just does not taste the same when it is not shared.  I agree!!!

Sharing of food is seen as a gesture of courtesy, and the Laotians say it is their practice to prepare extra dishes for just this sort of chance encounter.  I was constantly invited to join the meal as one of the family.  Some days I had as many as 10 meals.  But these small portions of tasty treats would never add up to even two of our meals eaten in the West.  No wonder they all look so great!

Here are some of my favorite dishes...

A whole suckling pig roast basted with laos beer and salt and pepper.  We had this for Christmas along with all the local trimmings....pigs blood soup, salad, sticky rice and laap.

Laap- is essentially a salad made from raw meat or fish which is cured in lime juice and mixed with chopped herbs and roasted rice powder (khao kua).  Everyone has their own recipe for laap, and during my stay I was to eat it raw, cooked, made with: deer, duck, offal, chicken, pork, fish, blood...with or without lime, with galangal and different kinds of herbs.  The list goes on and on. 

Ant egg laap- yes...the squiggling fat eggs of stinging red ants!!!! Laos people love them for their taste and they are an important source of protein and fat for tribal people.

Here a some of my friends preparing the laap ped..ducks laap.  They had bought the duck from the market that day (they do not have a fridge) killed it- saving the blood for lap luet ped and plucked and chopped it up.  They even made a succulent broth using the bones!

Plates of ducks blood.. mixed with chopped mint/coriander, pounded peanuts, chopped chillis, roasted rice, lime juice and fish sauce.  It looks frightening, but is actually very delicious.  After a lot of coaxing I got a few other falang to try it (with their whisky) and they agreed, 'wow, that is good'.

Here is the laap luet sook- cooked duck laap.  It is a rich dish that enables 15 people to gorge on only 2 ducks.  That is economical cooking!!!

Laap fish is definitely my fav!  This one was expertly prepared by MAMA RASTA...her raw laap fish highlights the vital laos ingredient -PA DEK!

PA DEK-  is a condiment made of highly pungent  fermented fish chunks and is essential in Laos.  It is lumpy and opaque in contrast to the clear, liquid fish sauce nam pa.

It is made by fermenting raw freshwater fish pieces in salt water with rice dust and rice husks- a few months in an earthenware jar in the hot sun usually does it. 

Most families make their own, but it is also available in the market.  I found that many Westerners found the idea of eating rotten fish revolting- but the Laos find it equally repellent that we eat fermented milk with lines of blue mould in the form of cheese!

PA DEK's origin comes from the far distant past when aboriginal people in the area found a way of preserving the bountiful supply ofsmall fish that swells the laos rivers in the rainy season.  AS I was to discover, when pa dek is used within a dish the heady bouquet retreats and it transforms into an intricate and subtle under flavor of great sophistication.  Just 1/2 tsp inexplicably lifts a dish from the mundane to the refined.

We carried our own cask of pa dek, along with fresh fish, sticky rice, fruit and veggies for a leisurely picnic on one of the nearby islands.

Guess who got right into pounding the spicy bean salad...with pa dek???

Hopey.....looking a little full on too much laap, a wee bit drunk on lao khao (local moonshine...which cannot be refused if offered) and giddy from such great company.

Comments

[Kelly]

Wow Hope, this is facinating! What a different world. Please though, don't tell me if you serve blood soup & bugs when we get together this summer for a catch-up session. I'll eat it and love it, and leave it at that. (Again, so thankful you are safe & sound)

[Cam]

We are so serparted from the reality of our food, here in N America. The truth for us is worse... We feed our animals with food made from the sick and dead animals.
That duck and pig (Hopey correct me if I wrong) probably never saw medications or antibotics maybe never even comercial feed.

Beleive it or not, the food that you describe reminds me the most of French country cooking. It's made by the people who live close to the land, using simple and fresh ingredients(especially the meat). Traditional food, but with endless possible local recipes. Nothing is wasted, even the most unusual parts of the animals are treated with respect and importance (how about duck testicle soup anyone?), and always shared with friends, family, and loved ones.

Hopey, how long did they cook the pig for? did they turn it on a spit? bury it in coals or hot rocks?
I would have used a knife to score the outside with long crossing lines and made crackling. Did they have any similar methods?

[maggie]

i just wanted to say that your website and memoirs of lao food made me smile ( and laugh) today! my boyfriend is from laos, so i have been introduced to many laotian dishes by both he and his parents- what a wonderful gift to know them! - i would have eaten boring american food my whole life with no fish sauce, long beans or chili peppers :) - i do have to say kudos for eating laap w/ ant eggs- although laap is my favorite, i don't know if i'm THAT brave!- thanks for the great site!

[Lisa]

Would anyone know where I could purchase a roasted pig on the island - it is for a family get together to help celebrate my parents 50th anniversary - approx 50 people.

[Say]

I can't belive it...you actually ate larp luet pet (bloody duck larp). You are truely amazing! There is nothing on earth you can't eat now. You are such a brave soul. I am Laosian. Larp leut pet is "The" most rare and hardest dish to prepare, and only served to closest friends. It is considered a special treat amoung Laosian. Not many Laosian knows how to make this dish anymore, which is why I am searching for the recipe. I have been searching for the recipe for a long time but no luck until I came here. You gave me the ingrediance I'm looking for. You see, I already know how to make part of it, but not complete. Thank you very much....

[Laocook]

Great site with great pics. Makes us "miss home"

Your comment "But......in my mind Laos offers some of the most fulfilling food experiences in the world. Don't baulk....look at the photos and for goodness sake visit the place!"

speak volumes.... well done!

[greg bancroft]

we were at sobeys in halifax ns and wanted to buy your bread machines mix but no instructions-would you please forward instructions at your earliest convenience thanks

[greg bancroft]

sobeys sells your machine bread mix - but there is no inst. on how to make the bread -using your bread mix -lease forward inst asap thanks

[prowlSpoilm]

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[Paula]

Thank you for sharing. I wish I will get to visit Laos sometime in the future.
I love lao food and the lao khao.